Randall Packer, Gregory Kuhn, Wojtiech Matusik
IMPORTANT: Prior to the actual installation, the following steps should be
- Locate and inventory boxes, crates, and other materials and check for damage
during shipping. Repair any damage. Consult with artists if needed.
- Check to see if there are any notes, issues or changes coming from the previous
- Locate the ceiling sections #1 to # 10 and roller paint the undersides with
flat black latex paint. Touch up with spackle any serious scrapes or dents.
NOTE: Some holes in the ceilings are for hanging items or access to coffin
locks. Do not fill these holes.
NOTE: Have extra of the same paint to do touch-ups to the ceiling.
- Look at the entry curtain (blue and black, roughly 6 by 10)
to see if it is seriously wrinkled from storage or shipping. (See photos #35
- IMPORTANT: The entry curtain should not become wet and should not be steamed
(This causes wrinkling.) Dry clean and/or press only. The only way to remedy
wrinkling is by having the curtain pressed. If needed, time the pressing so
that it can be hung as soon as possible after pressing.
- Locate the three fan assemblies (10" fan box, 4" fan box, and
3" fan mount) and plug them in to verify that they are working properly.
- AESTHETICS: It is important to the aesthetics of Mori that the 10"
fan works reliably. It should be replaced by a like fan if failing. Call Middle
Atlantic Products Inc. at 973-839-1011 to find a local distributor for part
# fan-10 (550 CFM, 46dBA free air rating, 10" fan) if needed.
- SAFETY: It is important to the fire safety of Mori that this 10"
fan is operating whenever the UM-Mini Subwoofer (installed in platform section
P-1) is on and active. This is a self-powered speaker that can heat up over
extended periods of use. Although the UM-Mini Sub shuts down in case of overheating,
overheating is generally dangerous and potentially damaging to the unit. It
turns "Rear On" when operating temperature is restored.
- Clean and check the air filter and the air cooler. See the manuals for the
2 items in the Mori Manual. It may be necessary to order replacement
- Locate (36) guide-rail post flanges, the two portal railing circular sections,
(4) 36" 1" iron posts, and select (6) 30" iron posts, HM-1
speaker brackets. Use high gloss black spray paint touch up all of these pieces
of iron. The larger circular section of the portal railing should be lightly
sanded to remove any burrs before painting; this needs to be smooth to the
- Purchase, as exhibition opening nears, a bag of fir bark mulch (approx.
10 gal.). You will need to provide 5 (approx. 2 gal. sized) boxes to put the
fir bark into.
Here is a list of important materials that should be included in the supplies
with Mori or will need to be provided:
- 2 gal. of flat black latex paint
- 1 qt. of gloss black latex paint
- ? cans of gloss black spray paint
- 1/4" soft Neoprene in 1" strips
- Carpet tape
- Elmers Natural Wood Putty
- Spray Contact Cement
- Glass cleaner
- 120 grit sandpaper
- Screws, nails, nuts and bolts
- Labeling tape
- Electrical tape
- Wood glue
- Fabric pins
- Paper clamps
- Scrap soft foam
- Hook eye screws
Here is a list of tools provided:
- Coffin lock wrench
- Hex wrenches (for iron fittings)
- Fabric brush
- Putty knife
Here is a list of tools and equipment you will need to provide:
- 3, 6, and 10 step ladders
- Carpet and shop vacuums
- Dollies, hand trucks, and carts
- Work lights and extension cords
- Drop cloths
- Screw guns and bits
- Hammer and nail set
- Hex wrenches
- Socket wrenches
- Tape measures
- Pry bars
- Stapler and staples
- Electrical tools (strippers, etc.)
- Screw drivers
I hope you will not need:
- Wood shims
- Chop saw
- Skill saw
- PVC hack saw
- PVC cement
- Carpet knife
- Electronics soldering tools
- Hot glue
- Sewing kit
- VERY IMPORTANT: I cannot stress this enough. Aspects of the assembly will
make other aspects completely inaccessible without disassembly. Follow the
details to avoid significantly compounding the work.
- Layout the placement of Mori for installation by locating and mapping
the enclosure entry, walls, ceiling and platforms onto the exhibition floor.
- IMPORTANT: Use the outside dimensions of the ceiling (see Designs, "Ceiling
Sections") taking note of the front-rear and left-right differences in
dimensions to place the enclosure front. Include in at least a 1-1/2
of clearance from any adjacent wall to allow for access up and over the ceiling
- IMPORTANT: Check that you have sufficient height clearances for the entire
enclosure. The enclosure height is generally 9 10-1/2", but physical
access to the top side of the ceiling from the periphery of the enclosure
is required. A few items do poke up higher (a few inches) than the stated
height. Any height less than 11 will make installation more difficult.
- SAFETY: Check that venue lighting fixtures (or other hot fixtures) are not
close to the top of the enclosure ceiling to avoid fire hazard.
- Install platform sections. See Designs, "Platform Sections."
- IMPORTANT: Check the undersides of all platform sections to see that each
marked location for guide-rail T-nuts does in fact have a 5/16"-18 (coarse
thread) T-nut installed and that it is not going to fall out after the platforms
are assembled. See photos #42 and #43.
- IMPORTANT: Check that each and every T-nut works easily with a 5/16"-18
(coarse thread) bolt and finger tightening. It is essential for later steps
that these T-nuts are in place and easy to screw into before the enclosure
is assembled. Later repair is painful at best. Replace any bad T-nuts at this
- Reattach any of the foam bead-board to the undersides of the platforms (with
contact adhesive spray) that may have fallen off during transit.
- Place the platform sections into the configuration outlined in the Designs.
- Begin by placing platform sections (likely P-1 to P-5) adjacent to each
other, checking that they appear level. Shim platforms as needed. Use the
hex wrench to turn the coffin locks between sections (clockwise) such that
platforms "suck" together. Avoid causing a cumulative need for shims.
- NOTE: There is some give between platform sections in the coffin lock hardware.
There may be an advantage to not fully locking certain platforms together
until more platforms are positioned. The locks should be able to turn more
- NOTE: All platform sections are glued and screwed together internally, except
the top to P-1.
- SAFETY: There is a portal plug included with Mori that fits into
the portal (hole) in the top of platform section P-5. Place this into the
hole so that no one gets injured. Keep it there as long as possible until
the portal railing is installed.
- NOTE: It is important to shim and adjust platforms sections to guarantee
that they rest firmly on the floor. Later adjustments to the platforms become
- IMPORTANT: After all of the platforms are firmly in place and coffin locked
together, check that the gap between sections P-10 and P-3 is 6-3/4";
adjust if needed. (See Designs, "Platform Sections.") Check that
the periphery of the platforms are where the layout of the enclosure (assembly
step #2) predicted.
- IMPORTANT: When the platforms are where they will be for the duration, walk
on the platforms everywhere. Identify locations that squeak or creek and repair
those locations at this point. One method is to shoot extra long wood screws
between platforms to eliminate movement when weight bearing. Mark these extra
screws so that they are easily found when disassembling.
- AESTHETICS: It is very important to the aesthetic of the work that the platforms
be as quiet as possible when visitors are entering, crossing, and exiting
Mori. If needed, platform sections should be repaired or modified to
avoid these noises.
- When you feel that all of the platforms are properly installed, do one final
check (with a heavy person) to make sure that they are silent.
- Install the 10" fan box (with the 10" fan already inside) into
its location under P-6, adjacent to P-1. See Designs, "10", 4"
and 3" Fans and Smoke Detectors" and photos #40 and #46. Also see
notes on the box to orient so that the fan is blowing into P-1.
- The 10" fan box attaches to P-6 with L-braces. It needs to compress
against the neoprene gasketed opening on P-1. Replace or repair neoprene if
needed. It will later compress against wall section W-11.
- NOTE: There should be a stash of extra neoprene included with Mori.
This material is 1/4" thick, 1" wide, adhesive-backed soft neoprene.
- IMPORTANT: It is important for noise and air flow reasons that there be
no air gaps in the 10" fan box air flow path.
- NOTE: Tape or otherwise attach the electrical lead of the 10" fan to
the top of P-6 so that it is accessible after the walls are installed. Double
check that the fan is still working. Access later is only possible by removing
wall section W-11.
- Assemble wall sections. Refer to Designs, "Wall Sections." The
finished black fabric sides face out. See any notes written directly on the
- AESTHETICS: Before beginning, check that the front wall sections are in
- NOTE: If there was significant damage to any of the front wall sections,
these may be able to be swapped with other wall sections in the rear.
- NOTE: Wall sections should be able to be bolted together through pre-drilled
holes for the bolts. Add extra screws (and mark them for disassembly) if additional
strength is needed.
- Begin with sections W-4 and W-5.
- IMPORTANT: Place W-4 and W-5 so that the gaps to adjacent platforms match
the specifications in the Designs, "Wall Sections."
- Continue by attaching W-3 to W-4.
- Place W-1 and W-2 into position. Use markings on the platforms to aid placement.
Attach hinges between the three sections (W-1, -2, and -3).
- IMPORTANT: W-1 should be able to align well into the markings on the platforms.
Other aspects depend on this alignment (carpeting, curtains, etc.).
- NOTE: There may be an advantage to proceeding with W-22 and W-23 before
others in that this would guarantee that the entry is aligned. The difficulty
here is supporting W-22 while W-23 (suspended) is installed between W-22 and
- NOTE: There should be a 1" gap between W-22 and P-10.
- Continue installing walls by adding sections one by one to those already
- IMPORTANT: wall section W-11 needs to compress properly against the 10"
fan box neoprene gasket. Check this compression for air tightness when W-11
is installed. Make sure the electrical lead to the fan is accessible.
- SAFETY: Be careful that wall sections do not topple while assembling.
- NOTE: There may be variation in the exact layout of the walls. In general,
entire enclosure sides can be somewhat pushed and adjusted to accommodate
slight irregularities. Watch for bowing. Avoid gaps between sections.
- ASTHETICS: The tops of the wall sections should be flat and the walls should
be visually straight section to section. The front view and the entry are
the most important.
- Assemble the steel beam. See Designs, "Ceiling Sections" and "Detail
- Pre-assemble parts onto the two sections of steel outside the enclosure,
verifying that all of the needed braces and bolts are ready. There is a brace
that joins the two sections (this attaches to the 1111" steel section),
and an L-brace on either end of the outside ends of each steel section (on
the underside) that will later attach to the inside of the walls. Check that
the front end of the 1111" steel section is plugged with foam.
- SAFETY: Verify that the plywood underplate is securely attached to the steel
on both sections and that there was no damage to its strength.
- Move the 73" steel section into place. It rests on top of wall
sections W-1 and W-15 with the L-brace on the inside of W-15. Wall sections
are marked for alignment. Attach to walls loosely with the provided hardware.
- Move the 1111" steel section into place. It rests on top of W-1
and W-5. Join the two sections to each other (above W-1) with the steel brace;
attach loose to W-5.
- Align the entire steel beam and securely tighten all fasteners.
- SAFETY: When the steel sections are fully installed, they should be very
strong and tight. Fix any loose connections and guarantee a secure fit. Compress
walls if needed. The rest of the ceiling relies on the steel.
- Install ceiling sections. Refer to Designs, "Ceiling Sections."
- Verify that sections C-10, -9, -8, and -1 have T-nuts that are in place
and secure; these attach the HM-1 speaker brackets to the ceiling. See photo
#41 but note that a different bracket is used than is here shown. See notes
on the platforms that indicate drop points from the HM-1 brackets.
- IMPORTANT: Verify that the 5/16"-18 (coarse) T-nuts for the (4) HM-1
speaker brackets work easily and properly. Later access is difficult.
- AESTHETICS: Verify that the neoprene gaskets around the edges of the ceiling
sections (between the steel and the ceiling sections and between ceiling sections)
are in place and complete. These provide sound and light insulation.
- IMPORTANT: The ceiling sections are not inter-changeable. They need to be
properly configured for other items to be installed in the correct locations.
- NOTE: If possible, verify that the enclosure walls and the steel beam are
square. If these are off, the ceiling will install askew. There may be an
advantage to not using too many screws when initially attaching ceiling sections
in case the entire enclosure is somewhat rhomboid or the steel beam needs
to be adjusted left or right. Keep errors to the rear of the enclosure by
following the procedure outlined in the next paragraph.
- IMPORTANT: Set the enclosure front ceiling sections first (C-1 and C-10)
before continuing with other sections. Place C-1 (and C-10) on top of two
perpendicular walls and then move into position on the steel beam, resting
on the plywood underplate. Adjust C-1 and C-10 so that the overhang beyond
the face of the enclosure front wall protrudes 5" and the left and right
sides protrude approximately 4-1/4". See the Designs, "Ceiling Sections."
The enclosure front sides of C-1 and C-10 should be in the same plane. The
left and right overhang should be the same; adjust steel beam if needed.
- IMPORTANT: There should be little or no gaps between the wall tops and the
ceiling underside. The sections should be as tight as possible against the
- Secure C-1 and C-10 by attaching with screws to the plywood plate on the
steel beam and to the tops of the walls.
- NOTE: You will need to introduce work lights into the enclosure as you proceed.
Use (supplied) screw eye bolts attached to the walls if desired.
- SAFETY: Be careful that lights do not rest on walls or platforms.
- After C-1 and C-10 are secured, moving from enclosure front to rear, place
ceiling sections one at a time onto the tops of the walls, resting on the
plywood underplate of the steel beam. Again, these should be as tight and
square to the steel beam as possible.
- Once a section is placed, use the coffin locks to tighten sections to each
other. Watch for bowing between sections when locks are engaged. Secure with
screws to the plywood plate on the steel beam and to the walls.
- NOTE: Verify that HM-1 speaker bracket holes are in the correct locations.
There are currently no measurements on this. Use the "Speaker Cabling
and Placement" as a reference.
- NOTE: Verify that the hole for the 3" fan is accessible in C-5.
- NOTE: Check overhangs left and right as installation progresses.
- NOTE: Access to coffin locks (one each) between C-1 to C-2 and C-2 to C-3
are through cutouts in the tops of walls sections W-3 and W-4.
- Install UM-mini sub, air cooler, air filter, flat screen monitor, smoked
glass, and cabling into platform section P-1. Refer to Designs, "HM-1
System," "Electrical Distribution," and "Component Layout."
See photos #22, #25, #44, and #47.
- Unscrew and undo coffin locks that secure the top of P-1. Lift out the top
- Clean the flat screen monitor (with a dusting cloth) and two pieces of smoked
glass (with glass cleaner). Check that the taped edges are clean looking.
- Place the UM-mini sub, air cooler, flat screen monitor, and air filter into
their positions inside P-1. The subwoofer should be oriented so that its rear
connections are closer to the opening in the top of P-1.
- FRAGILE: Replace the portal plug as soon as possible to protect the flat
- SAFETY- IMPORTANT: Follow the patching precisely.
- SAFETY- IMPORTANT: Subwoofer vibrations can loosen connections. Use electrical
tape on all connections except those on components.
- Install the following cables into P-1:
- "Sub AC" = elec. from the AR-1220 power conditioner to the UM-mini
sub (note the AC adapter into the sub should be attached to the AC extension
- "Sub #5" = TRS 1/4" to XLR audio feed from the MOTU-2048
to the UM-mini sub. (Note XLR connection into the sub.)
- "Fan In" = the elec. feed with a cube tap from the AR-1220 to
the 10" fan and the air filter. (Note that the 10" fan cable runs
into P-1 to make the connection)
- "PC-Mon" = the elec. feed with a cube tap from the AR-1220 to
the flat screen monitor and the air cooler. (Note that the flat screen monitor
power transformer should be attached to the AC extension cable.)
- "LCD" = the (100 + 6) VGA monitor cable. Tie this
off to an eye hook on the wall above the cable hole in P-1 to maximize its
length at this end. NOTE: The "LCD" cable runs on the platforms
near the guide-rail flanges.
- NOTE: It is useful to temporarily attach the cables out of the way to the
wall above the hole in P-1 by string attached to screw hooks. A box of screw
hooks is supplied.
- NOTE: Leave some slack on the electrical feeds to the air cooler and filter
and the flat screen monitor since these items may need to be moved (while
attached) towards the portal. Leave some, but not much, slack on the "PC-Mon"
VGA cable; this cable in general is very tight.
- After the flat screen monitor cabling is installed, place 2 pieces of smoked
glass onto the top (face) of the flat screen monitor.
- IMPORTANT: Test the electrical. The 10" fan, air cooler, air filter,
and monitor clearly indicate electrical service. Access later is very difficult.
- IMPORTANT: Plug in the electrical feed to the sub; if power is applied,
a light on the rear of the sub will indicate that it is on. Check the subwoofer
audio by touching with bare fingers the TRS connection on the unattached end
of the audio feed into the sub. By shorting the pins on this connector (with
your finger), you should be able to hear a slight sound that will indicate
that the sub is indeed receiving audio signal. Without the described short,
the sub should be very quiet. If there appears to be a problem, check the
wires inside the 2 audio connectors, XLR on the sub end and TRS on the MOTU-2408
- Once all is verified, dress the cables towards the rear-right corner of
P-1 where there is a cutout for the cables to enter and exit P-1, and replace
the top to P-1.
- NOTE: After subsequent steps, you will no longer have access to this area
(except through the portal) without huge amounts of disassembly.
- Install carpet. See Designs, "Carpet Layout" and orientation notes
on the carpet sections.
- AESTHETICS: Do one last check of the platforms to insure that there are
no squeaks when walking through the enclosure.
- When installing the carpets proceed as they are numbered, 1 through 5.
- AESTHETICS: Avoid fraying carpet edges.
- IMPORTANT: With the technique described below, it is easy and fast to get
an exact placement for the carpets. It is also possible to push out the guide-rail
flange T-nuts. One should be able to easily screw a bolt into a T-nut; if
it is difficult the bolt is either askew or the hole is obstructed. Do not
force the bolts; sometimes the bolt will grab the platform and as it is tightened
push out the T-nut. This later effect is to be seriously avoided. Proceed
- By using the holes that are pre-drilled through the carpet to give access
to the holes for the guide-rail flange bolts, the carpet sections can be exactly
relocated to their respective positions. Each flange location is marked with
a piece of white tape; there are 2 holes for each flange location.
- Roll a section of carpet out. Lift a corner and push a bolt near the corner
through the carpet. Locate the matching bolt hole and pull the carpet into
position for the bolt to drop into its hole in the platforms. Move to a diagonal
corner and follow the same process, aligning the carpet section. Check alignment
with a few more bolts.
- IMPORTANT: Do not leave bolts unscrewed in the T-nut holes. If stepped on
out goes the T-nut. Screw the bolts as far as fingers allow into the T-nut
as you proceed.
- Proceed with the rest of the carpet sections. The carpet sections are somewhat
adjustable as long as the bolt holes are aligned. See that the butt joints
between sections are as tight as possible by pulling sections towards each
other while the bolts retain general alignment.
- AESTHETICS: The carpet around the portal should be well aligned.
- Use provided carpet tape on the carpet seems and at the entry on the floor.
It is not necessary to tape the outside edges of every carpet; the sides next
to walls are mostly clamped by flanges later.
- Use a black marker to touch up any frayed edges that show white backing.
- NOTE: There should be some extra carpet scraps in case of bad damage. Otherwise,
the carpet was ordered through Floor Dimensions (510-525-5656) and is Philadelphia
Sweetwater style #52169, color Blackstone #69502.
- Install guide-rail flanges. See Designs, "Guide-rail Layout,"
and photos #32, #34, and #48 to #50.
- NOTE: The flanges on the ramp get special attention.
- Place the flanges into their positions, one each located on a piece of white
tape on the carpet, approximately 30" to 36" apart. Point the hex
bolt set screws on the flanges towards the outside. Using a large black washer
and black headed bolt, by hand locate the flanges to their respective T-nut
holes and begin screwing the bolts into the T-nut.
- IMPORTANT: It is essential that these bolts be started by hand and that
each one is verified to be properly engaged before any wrench is taken to
them. Mistakes here can push out a T-nut and be very difficult to repair.
- When you are certain that a specific bolt is safely engaged with its T-nut,
use a socket wrench to tighten the bolt. Make these very, very tight.
- On the ramp area, there is a set of (6) gloss black wood wedges that compensate
for the slope, making the flanges perpendicular to the floor. See the Designs,
"Ramp Flange Layout" and the notes on the wedges. These are not
particularly interchangeable, and specific length bolts go into specific holes.
Again, start and set the bolts by hand, but do not tighten at this time.
- NOTE: There are a few extra wedges included in the supplies.
- There are four flanges that go around the portal. Place these with the hex
set bolts towards the portal.
- Assemble and install the portal railing. See Designs, "Portal Railing
Detail," and photos #20, and #48 to #50.
- SAFETY: Keep the portal plug in place during this procedure to avoid dropping
anything onto the flat screen monitor.
- There are two circular sections to the portal railing. The larger one goes
- NOTE: The iron fittings on the circular sections should be already attached
to the circular iron pieces. If they are not, see the section at the end of
this document, "Complete Assembly of the Portal Railing."
- To assemble the portal railing, first identify the front of each circular
section. I have asked each venue to place a clear marker (tape) on the front
side of each section to aid in this process. If these markers are not present,
refer to the "Portal Railing Detail" to aid in the location of the
marks on the iron fittings.
- IMPORTANT: Do not loosen the hex set bolts that secure the iron fittings
to the circular sections. Keep these fixed; they should be unmodified from
the previous venue. This will help get as good an assembly as possible without
- Invert the larger circular section. Insert (4) 36" iron posts into
the fittings on the larger of the two circular sections and loosely tighten
the hex set bolts. With the posts in the air (and the larger circle still
down) slide the lower circular section onto the posts and tighten the set
bolts loosely with the circle roughly about a foot below the post bottoms.
Upright the railing assembly.
- Adjust the lower circular section so that the bottom of its fittings are
1 from the floor, rather 1 from the pipe ends.
- The portal railing should now be generally together. The following process
is a bit of an art. Look at the railing and adjust the verticality of the
posts. Insert small wood shims between the top of the posts and the iron fittings
(on the larger circle) to aid in achieving vertical posts. The entire assembly
has some horizontal flexibility until the set bolts are tightened. When the
railing appears as "square" and vertically oriented as possible,
tighten the set bolts.
- Orient the railing with the front of the railing towards the front of the
enclosure. Set it into the flanges on the platforms and tighten the set bolts
on the flanges. Check verticality and make any final adjustments, looking
at it especially from the direction of entry into the central room. Test the
railing by leaning on it and placing a foot on the lower circle.
- Touch up the railing if needed with a black marker. It should have been
previously spray painted to address any significant scrapes or chips.
- Install guide-rail posts.
- Place (32) 30" posts into their respective flanges. (6) of the 30"
posts should have received a painting touch up. Place these ( the best 2)
by the entry.
- Install the posts by tightening two hex set bolts on each flange. On each
post check that any given flange is very tightly bolted to the platforms and
that the post is visually vertical.
- NOTE: Since there are two set bolts on each post and the posts are a little
loose inside the flanges, it is necessary to actually set the bolts with the
posts vertical. Step back and adjust each post. A small level is handy.
- In the entry area it is more difficult to get the posts to appear vertical
and in straight lines. Shim the flange wedges if needed to slightly adjust
the flange to aid in post verticality. When you think the entry posts are
vertical, view the first 4 posts on either side of the entry from an angle
whereby one can compare post to post the positioning in relation to each other.
On each side of the entry, the first 4 posts should be in a relatively straight
line, each one parallel to the others. Loosening the flanges and sliding them
one way or the other can aid in the alignment process.
- Finally, grab each post top and verify that it is very firmly secured into
the flange and that each flange is secure on the platform.
- Install cabling. See Designs, "Electrical Distribution," "HM-1
System," and "Data and Computer Patch"; see photos #18, #28,
#31, #37, #39 and #41.
- Install screw eye hooks into various locations in the enclosure as follows.
- Place a screw eye hook 1 down the wall from the ceiling behind each
- Place two hooks on the walls beginning at W-11 and continuing along to W-18
approximately every 4' at 3' above the platforms.
- Place a hook just below the hole in C-5 for the 3" fan cable. See Designs,
"3" and 4" fans."
- Place a hook just below the location of the 4" fan.
- SAFETY- IMPORTANT: Follow the patching precisely.
- SAFETY- IMPORTANT: Subwoofer vibrations can loosen connections. Use electrical
tape on all connections except those on components. Secure cables to eye hooks
before entering components.
- Install the following cables:
- "4" fan" = electrical extension from the AR-1220 power conditioner.
Locate the female end near the 4" fan box.
- "3" fan" = electrical extension from the AR-1220. Locate
the female end near the 3" fan hole in C-5.
- "Main" = electrical extension. This is the main feed to the AR-1220.
Locate the female end near the AR-1220. This cable runs through the hole in
- "PC Comp" = electrical extension from the AR-1220. Locate the
female end near the location for the PC Computer. This cable runs through
the hole in W-22.
- "Fiber Optic" = electrical extension from the AR-1220. Locate
the female end near the location for the PH3000. This cable runs through the
hole in W-22.
- Install the following cables, bundle :
- "HM-1 #1 to 4" = TRS 1/4" from the MOTU-2408 to the HM-1
audio input connector. (The TRS end goes at the MOTU-2408 end.)
- "48V #1 to #4" = PS-1 DC output connector to HM-1 48V input connector.
(2) PS-1 power supplies run four HM-1s providing 48 volts DC.
- "Sub #1 to #4" = HM-1 Sub output connector to HM-sub input connector
(two pins at the HM-1 sub output end.) Each HM-1 speaker amplifies a respective
HM-sub subwoofer. NOTE: One sub cable has been extended; it goes to sub #1.
- IMPORTANT: Attach a 3 bundle of HM-1 audio, 48V, and sub cabling to
eye hooks behind the HM-1 speakers. Run the bundles down the wall and across
the floor until you reach W-11 (just above the cable hole in P-1); then run
these bundles along the wall off the floor at 3 to W-18.
- "MIDI DMX" = MIDI cable feeds from the Fastlane (the Serial Interface
for the Apple Computer) to the Serial Interface for the Lanbox MIDI to DMX
convertor. This cable runs through the hole in W-22.
- "MIDI Data" = MIDI cable feeds from the PC Computer to the Fastlane
for the Apple Computer. This cable runs through the hole in W-22.
- Continue the following cabling:
- "Sub AC" = elec. into the UM-mini sub (note the AC adapter into
the sub should be attached to the AC extension cable)
- "Sub #5" = TRS 1/4" to XLR audio feed to the UM-mini sub
(XLR connection into the Sub) from the MOTU-2408.
- "Fan In" = the elec. feed with a cube tap from the AR-1220 to
the 10" fan and the air filter. (Note that the 10" fan cable runs
into P-1 to make the connection.)
- "PC-Mon" = the elec. feed with a cube tap from the AR-1220 to
the flat screen monitor and the air cooler.
- "LCD" = the (100 + 6) VGA monitor cable from the flat
screen monitor to the PC computer. This cable runs through the hole in W-22.
NOTE: This cable runs on the platforms near the guide-rail flanges.
- "Apple Mon" = the (25) VGA monitor cable from the Apple
Computer to the Dell monitor just outside the entry.
- 14) Install sound baffles. See Designs, "Baffles Layout," and
photos #37 and #38.
- There a four sections of sound baffles, (2) 4 by 4 and (2) 4
by 20. The baffles have grommets on one (long) side. These can be attached
with screws/washers or eye hooks to the walls.
- The two 4 sections go in the enclosure rear-right corner and central
room rear-left corner with the baffles touching the platform. The two 20
sections go on the inside of the front wall of the central room with one piece
touching the platform and the other touching the ceiling; these two overlap
slightly. The top 20 section should not be particularly bunched at the
top to avoid pushing the interior curtains away from the wall.
- NOTE: The baffles go over any cabling; the (3) cables (bundled) going into
the rear of the HM-1 speakers go over the top edge of the top 20 baffle.
- Install 3" fan mount, 4" fan box, and smoke detectors. See Designs,
"10", 4" and 3" fans and smoke detectors," "Detail
#9 (steel)." Note: there are no good photos of these items.
- The 3" fan mount is an exhaust fan (blowing out of the enclosure) attached
to the top-rear of the steel beam. Neoprene gaskets provide an air tight fitting
between the 3" fan mounts wood plate and the cutout in the steel
beam (and the two edges of ceiling sections C-5 and C-6.) The 3" fan
mount is screwed to the top edges of C-5 and C-6. The electrical cable feeds
through a hole in C-5 into the interior of the enclosure.
- The 4" fan box is an exhaust fan (blowing out of the enclosure) attached
to the inside of wall section W-17. The edges of the 4" fan box face
(the side with the fan attached) screws into W-17. Attach the electrical feed.
- SAFETY: The enclosure contains (2) smoke detectors, one just inside the
entry, and one in the central room. These are interconnected and do not require
batteries. They are engaged when the installation is turned on.
- SAFETY: Should smoke trigger an alarm, both detectors will sound. Do not
enter the enclosure if the alarms are triggered until you know it is safe
to enter. Immediately shutdown the installation with the main breaker (in
the building) or by simply unplugging the main electrical feed to Mori.
- The (2) 120V smoke detectors are interconnected with the same electrical
feed. Each has a metal electrical box that gets screwed to the ceiling (C-1
and C-10) in the locations indicated in the "Smoke Detectors" document.
The detector just inside the entry (the "first" detector) gets an
ungrounded electrical feed from the PC computer area (the shelving unit just
to the left of the entry, enclosure exterior) that passes through the hole
in W-22, up behind interior curtains, across the top corner between C-1 and
W-23, and to the metal electrical box.
- Inside the "first" detectors electrical box attach the two
AC wires (black and white) to the smoke detector leads (black and white) and
to the two leads (black and white) that continue to the "second"
detector. Attach the third (yellow) lead of the detector to the "alarm"
signal wire (green on the electrical cord) that goes to the "second"
- The "second" smoke detector gets located in the front-left interior
corner of the central room attached to the ceiling (C-10) behind what will
be the interior curtains. The electrical and alarm feed from the "first"
detector to the "second" detector travels out of the "first"
box continuing across the top corner between C-1 and W-23, through a hole
in W-23 and to the "second" box. The "second" detector
electrical box has 2 electrical feeds (black and white) and one "alarm"
signal wire (green on the electrical cord) that connect to the detector leads
(black and white, and yellow respectively.)
- SAFETY: Subwoofer vibrations can loosen connections. Use electrical tape
on any wiring inside the smoke detector electrical boxes. Plug in and test
the smoke detectors by pressing the test button on the underside of the detectors.
- Install the interior curtains (1/2" EMT PVC pipe and fittings), and
clamps. See Designs, "Curtains Layout," and photos #32, #34, #36,
#37, #41, #45, and #48 to #50.
- Beginning on either side interior of the entry to each length of 10
grey EMT pipe three interior curtains ("panels"), each 4 wide.
The EMT pipe slips into the panel's top pocket (the bottom pockets are smaller
and all but the four 10 long curtains have chain in the lower pockets.)
The first pipes begin at the entry (butted against W-23) with the flange side
of the EMT pipe towards the enclosure rear. Use black 3/4" pipe clamps
screwed to the ceiling to attach over the curtain (while on the pipe) to the
- NOTE: Look for previous clamp screw holes as a placement reference.
- At the entry, the first two interior curtain panels on each side are 10
long without chain. So, on the first pipe on either side of the entry there
are three curtain panels, two 10 (without chain) and one 8 (with
chain) that get evenly distributed across the pipe. The first curtain sections
get pushed as tight as possible against the wall and ceiling interior corner.
- AESTHETICS: Detail the bunching of the interior curtain (the "fullness")
before attaching to the ceiling. Try to overlap the edges of the curtains
(each curtain "panel") in front of the subsequent rear "panel"
to aid in the prevention of visibility behind the curtain as a visitor enters
- Continue, adding sections of interior curtains and pipe ((3) curtain panel
per 10 pipe, evenly bunched) to previously installed sections.
- IMPORTANT: Each subsequent section of pipe (with curtains attached) needs
to slip into the flange on the previous section of pipe. This aids in achieving
the curves in the interior curtain and helps prevent the curtain/pipe from
- AESTHETICS: Getting the interior curtain to look good is a bit of an art.
Generally at some points in turns (curves) in the curtain, the curtain and
pipe should be clamped right into the corner between the ceiling and the walls.
In between these points, the curtain should have even and graceful turns just
outside (a few to4") the guide-rail posts. Have one person sight the curtain
as it is installed. Look for previous screw holes to aid in indicating the
- NOTE: The curtain in 4 locations passes over the underside plywood plate
of the steel beam. The curtain also passes under the bundled cables that attach
to the HM-1 speakers.
- On the enclosure, left side interior, around the enclosure rear, around
the enclosure right, into and around the central room (right to front, to
left) the curtain sections get attached sequentially until the corner of W-1
- On the enclosure right side interior the curtain sections continue until
approaching the corner of W-1. Leave the end nearer to W-1 unattached, but
generally get the curve roughed in.
- There is a pre-glued piece of EMT pipe that serves to make the U-turn around
W-1. Place (3) curtain panels onto this section of pipe, one on the turn and
one on either short section of pipe on either side of the turn. The U-turn
curtain section needs to slip into both flanges on the two approaching ends
of curtain pipe (installed up to this point.) Adjust the various curtain sections
to get the best look (bunching and curves) and attach to the ceiling.
- Install HM-1 speakers and brackets, HM-subs, and attach cabling at speaker
ends. See Design, "HM-1 System," and photos # 37, #38, #41, and
- Attach an HM-1 speaker bracket to each HM-1 speaker with wood screws through
4 holes in each bracket. The brackets are numbered #1 to #4; the HM-1s
are not numbered.
- SAFETY- IMPORTANT: Verify that each bracket is securely attached to each
HM-1 speaker. The holes for the threads soften with use. Fix these holes if
needed (with glue and wood shards); do not make additional holes if at all
possible into the HM-1s. (If additional holes become a necessity, caulk
previous holes with black latex caulk.)
- Bolt each Bracket/HM-1 assembly to the T-nuts in the ceiling using black
washers and bolts as needed. The brackets have some flexibility (by bending
the brackets); this flexibility can be used to focus the speakers and to move
the speaker rear heat sinks away from the curtains.
- SAFETY- IMPORTANT: Verify that each bracket is securely attached to the
ceiling. If there is a problem, try to access the T-nut from above the ceiling
(from the enclosure exterior). Otherwise, you will need to detach ceiling
sections to access the problem T-nut from between ceiling sections; to do
this will require detaching the 3" fan mount and some interior curtains
from the ceiling.
- SAFETY- IMPORTANT: The HM-1 speakers are self-powered and heat up when powered
and active. The rear of each HM-1 has a heat sink that should not be able
to touch the interior curtains. Check that by accident a visitor cannot bump
the curtain such that it touches the heat sinks on the rear of the HM-1s.
(Note that the curtains are flame retardant and the HM-1s will shut
off with overheating. The HM-1s turn back on when operating temperature
- Attach the 3 cables that go into each HM-1 speaker ("HM-1 #",
"HM-sub", and "48V" cables.) See Assembly Instructions
Section (13). Loop the bundled cables around the speaker bracket near the
ceiling and run along the ceiling above the interior curtains. Gently pull
the excess cable behind the curtain.
- Place the 4 HM-sub speakers. Attach each with its respective HM-sub audio
cable. Note that cable for HM-sub #4 goes through W-2, and that cable for
HM-sub #1 is longer than the others.
- Focus each of the (4) HM-1 speakers at 5 6" directly (center)
above the portal.
- Install Apple computer and monitor, audio rack (with the AR-1220 power conditioner
and MOTU-2408 Audio Interface (for the Apple computer)), (2) PS-1 power supplies,
Fastlane Serial Interface (to the Apple computer), and interface cabling.
See Designs, "Component Layout," "Data and Computer Patch,"
"HM-1 System," and photos #27 to #31.
- Install the audio rack and Apple computer, Apple monitor (keyboard and mouse),
and Fastlane Serial Interface into their locations.
- Install (2) PS-1 power supplies into the audio rack between the AR-1220
and the MOTU-2408. Plug in the electrical connections from the AR-1220 into
- SAFETY- IMPORTANT: Follow the patching precisely.
- SAFETY-IMPORTANT: Subwoofer vibrations can loosen connections. Secure cables
to eye hooks (or audio rack handles) before entering components, or otherwise
guarantee that cables are not strained or able to disconnect or loosen.
- Plug all of the electrical extensions that terminate near the enclosure
rear-left corner into the rear of the AR-1220 power conditioner, except the
"Fan In" extension cable; plug this into the face of the AR-1220.
- Plug the AR-1220 into the "main" electrical feed. Keep this cable
available to temporarily patch "Fan In" into the "Main"
feed for periods when the enclosure needs off-hour ventilation.
- Patch the "48V" cables into the PS-1s. (Any "48V"
cable into any PS-1 48V output connector.)
- Patch (5) audio cables ("HM-1 #1 to #4" and "sub #5")
into MOTU-2408 audio outputs #1 to #5 respectively. These are 1/4" TRS
- Patch an Apple serial cable between the Apple Computer Printer Serial Port
and the Fastlane Serial input.
- Plug in the electrical connection from the MOTU-2408 into the AR-1220.
- Patch the "MIDI DMX" MIDI cable to the Fastlane MIDI out port
- Patch the "MIDI Data" MIDI cable to the Fastlane MIDI in port
- Plug the power cables from the AR-1220 to the Apple monitor and computer.
- Patch the Apple keyboard and mouse ADB cables into the Apple computer.
- Patch the Apple monitor VGA cable to the second monitor output on the Apple
computer (in the installed card slot.)
- Patch the "Apple Mon" (25) VGA cable to the primary monitor
output on the Apple computer.
- Patch the Firewire cable between the MOTU-2408 and the Apple computer PCI-card.
IMPORTANT: This Firewire cable goes into the Firewire connector nearest to
the Serial connector on the PCI-card.)
- Install the fiber optic guide-rail and PH3000 Illuminator. See Designs,
"Guide-rail Layout" and photos #7 to #9, #14 to #16, #18, #32, #34.
- IMPORTANT - FRAGILE: Follow these instructions precisely to avoid damaging
the fiber optic cable.
- IMPORTANT: Avoid kinking, bending, scraping, twisting, or otherwise damaging
the fiber cable. It cannot be repaired!!!!
- IMPORTANT: Do Not distort the natural bend or twist of the cable when uncoiling;
to do so could jeopardize future installations and be seriously expensive
- IMPORTANT: Take great care in uncoiling the fiber optic. Rotating the entire
coil may be necessary to avoid unnatural twists in the cable.
- NOTE: Although they should not be needed, there are extra tools, parts and
pieces for the fiber optic system. There are also extra Metal-Hallide lamps
for the PH3000. Refer to the included PH3000 Manual for details.
- With the iron fittings still attached (and wrapped), prepare to uncoil the
fiber optic cable. Begin with one end at the entry. Note which end it is by
the notes on the grey PVC couplers that protect the glued splices in the fiber
optic cable. (The clear fiber optic tubing splices to an opaque blackout optic
cable inside these PVC couplers.) Each end of the cable at this time can run
down the ramp (P-10) and out the entry.
- This will take two people: uncoil the fiber optic cable into and throughout
the interior of the enclosure paying close attention to the orientation of
the iron fittings to aid in the avoidance of twisting in the cable. Rotate
the entire coil if needed to properly unfurl the cable. Note the different
iron fittings that attach on the walls on either side of the entry and that
attach to the second 2 posts on either side of the ramp (P-10.)
- IMPORTANT: Follow this procedure exactly. Avoid stressing the fiber optic
- When the cable appears to be in position with fittings roughly aligned with
their respective guide-rail posts, begin at one end near the entry (skip the
first two wall mounted fittings at this time) and remove the wrapping on each
fitting one at a time while placing the fittings up and onto the posts. Finger
tighten the hex set screws on the iron fittings. If for some reason the fittings
do not want to go onto any given post top (if they are in resistance for some
reason): leave loose and return to these later when the bigger picture is
perceptible.) Move sequentially from one end of the cable to the other. Do
not undo fittings and guide-rail sleeves from the fiber optic cable: rotate
the cable to correct any twists.
- IMPORTANT: Do not undo fittings and guide-rail sleeves from the fiber optic
cable: rotate the cable to correct any twists. The entire fiber optic cable
should be able to be replaced exactly without kinks and twists without undoing
any of the attached iron fittings. To loosen these fittings will create much
more work and could damage the cable by permanently setting a twist into the
- When the entire length of fiber optic cable appears to be well positioned,
use the hex set bolts to secure the iron fittings onto the guide-rail posts.
- AESTHETIC: The fiber optic cable should appear fairly taught, with a slight
sag between most fittings. See the photos for reference. If for some (unfortunate)
reason the iron fittings on the fiber optic cable have been loosened or removed,
see the section at the end of this document, "Complete Assembly of the
Fiber Optic Guide-rail."
- Each end of the fiber optic cable does a downward U-turn (back up the ramp)
behind interior curtains. See the photos of the entry. Attach to the walls
(W-4 and W-22) the 4 wall mount fittings( 2 on each end) that should still
be on the fiber optic cable. Space these so that the curve in the cable looks
as it is in the photos #32 and #34 . Continue the cables up the walls behind
the interior curtains using pipe-clamps to secure the cable to the walls.
- On the right end of the cable, run the cable up and over the ceiling and
back down the interior side of W-22. See photo #36. The cable should be tight
against and under the smoke detector cables.
- IMPORTANT: Run the fiber optic cables so that there are no sharp turns (under
1 diameter) and so that the PVC couplers do not force a sharp bend in
the exiting fiber optic cable.
- Run both ends of the cable out the hole in W-22. There should be about 3
of excess fiber optic cable outside the enclosure. See photos #18 and #31.
- IMPORTANT: Follow the details of the PH3000 attachments. Damage to the fiber
optic cable is possible. Avoid scraping the ends of the fiber optic cable.
- See photos #14 to #16 for the following procedure. Place the PH3000 on the
floor beside the hole in W-22. Remove the large nut fitting, 2 metal washers,
and black-rubber sleeve from the PH3000. Slide these fittings onto both fiber
optic ends. See the photo of this. Note that this takes some strength to get
these onto the cable. Adjust the sleeves so that the black sleeve and last
washer are on the black casing on the cable; leave the section of clear cable
(where it has been stripped back) clear. Insert the fiber optic cables into
the PH3000; it should not touch the glass filters inside the PH3000. (See
photo #15.) Tighten the large nut fitting onto the PH3000. Note that it takes
some strength to tighten this large nut fitting.
- Plug in the PH3000 and verify that the light turns on. There is a small
rubber button that turns the unit on/off. It takes a moment to fire up. When
lit, light should traverse throughout the guide-rail, evenly on both sides.
You should hear a fan inside the PH3000.
- IMPORTANT- SAFETY: It is essential to the operation of the PH3000 that the
internal fan is working. If for some reason this is not engaged or if the
lamp does not turn on, it may be necessary to open the PH3000 and check the
- IMPORTANT: There are extra (expensive) lamps included with Mori that
fit the PH3000. Read the PH3000 manual and see the photos #13 to #15 if disassembly
is required. Do not touch the lamps. The specification of the lamp is included
in the PH3000 manual.
- IMPORTANT: Notice that on the underside of the PH3000, light bleed casts
a shadow. When the light is on, this shadow should be changing in a regular
(periodic) way. (It looks like something is rotating in one direction, stops
and returns the other, repeating this cycle.) Later, when DMX control is engaged,
this shadow is distinctly different, random and has fast fluctuations. It
is by this means that it is most easily verified that the PH3000 is receiving
control data from the Apple computer.
- Turn off the PH3000 when checked.
- Assemble the shelving unit, and install the PC computer, the PH3000 illuminator,
the Lanbox (MIDI to DMX convertor, the ("Express") Serial Interface
(to the Lanbox), the Dell Monitor, the Ethernet feed, and the PC keyboard
and mouse, and patch components. See Designs, "Data and Computer Patch,"
"Component Layout," "Electrical Distribution," and photos
#14, #15, and #29 to #31.
- Assemble the shelving unit with the lowest shelf a few inches off the floor,
the top shelf 12" below the post tops, and the middle shelf 24"
lower than the top shelf. Note that the shelving sleeves have a thicker end
(that goes down) and that they clip into the grooves on the posts (to avoid
- Place the shelving unit into its position and place the PC computer, Dell
monitor, Lanbox, "Express" Serial Interface, and PH3000 into positions
on the shelves.
- Attach an electrical power strip into the "PC-Comp" electrical
- Plug the PC computer and Dell monitor power cords, and Lanbox power supply
into the power strip attached to the "PC-Comp" cable.
- Plug the PH3000 power cord into the "fiber optic" electrical extension
- Plug the "Main" electrical feed (that goes to the AR-1220) into
a 20 amp electrical service provided by the venue: a well grounded, 12-guage
- SAFETY- IMPORTANT: It is important that the electrical service to Mori
(to the AR-1220) be uninterrupted, well grounded (no neutral to ground short),
and of a high gauge (12-guage) service. The load on this service is dynamic.
- Patch the "MIDI DMX" MIDI cable into the "Express" Serial
Interface MIDI in.
- Patch the "MIDI Data" MIDI cable to the output MIDI connector
on the pigtail on the rear of the PC computer.
- Patch the Ethernet feed into the PC-computer Ethernet connector.
- Patch an (Apple) serial cable between the "Express" Serial Interface
and the Lanbox Serial port.
- Patch the DMX short XLR (3-pin to 5-pin) from the Lanbox to the PH3000.
- Plug the DMX Terminator (XLR 5-pin with no cable attached) into the PH3000.
- Patch the Dell monitor into the PC computer. (The "LCD" 25VGA
cable from the Apple computer gets patched into the Dell monitor after the
system is started.)
- Patch the PC keyboard and mouse into the PC computer.
- Leave the "Apple Mon" (25) VGA cable unattached at this
- Dress the cables around the shelving unit so that they appear neat.
- 21) Install the ceiling facing trim and exterior base trim. See Designs,
"Elevation (Front)" and "Ceiling Sections."
- The 3/4" x 4-1/4" #2 pine facing trim gets attached to the sides
of the ceiling sections. The pieces should be labeled and pre-cut. (At this
date no layout exists.) The trim should be back- screwed from above and behind
to avoid screws through the visible face of the trim. The front side of the
trim should be comprised of two pieces that extend 3/4" past either end
(where the side pieces of trim butt join.) By making the trim flush to the
top of the ceiling sections, there should be a slight underhang, 1/4"
of the facing trim below the underside of the ceiling sections.
- NOTE: All facing and base trim joints are butt jointed.
- NOTE: To repair or touch up trims, use 120 grit sandpaper and Elmers
Natural Wood Putty. There is no finish on the wood.
- The 3/4" x 1-1/2" #2 pine base trim attaches with finish nails
to the wall sections and is flush against the floor. The pieces should be
labeled and pre-cut. (At this date no layout exists.)
- AESTHETICS: Touch up by using Elmers Natural Wood Putty and 120 grit
sandpaper any marks on any of the visible pieces of raw wood on the exterior
of the enclosure.
- Install the entry curtain. See Designs, "Curtains Layout," and
photos #35 and #36.
- Slip the entry curtain onto the 6 length of 1" metal conduit;
dress the curtain so that it is evenly distributed across the pipe. Note how
there are a few inches of clear pipe on either end of the curtain/pipe assembly
that allow the entry curtain to hang just inside the guide-rail. Place the
curtain/pipe assembly tight against the cables in the corner between C-1 and
W-23. Locate two black pipe clamps and attach the curtain/pipe assembly into
- IMPORTANT-SAFETY: The entry curtain should (when free hanging) barely brush
the carpet and the guide-rail. It should not have any potential of getting
hung up on the guide-rail or catching underfoot.
- NOTE: Consider pre-arranging a conference call with Gregory Kuhn (510-652-2016)
when you think you will be at this stage of assembly and testing.
- Turn on all components except the 2 computers. (Dont forget the PS-1
power supplies and the MOTU-2408.) Check that all 3 fans are on and that the
air cooler and air filter are on. (In general, these are always left on.)
- Verify at the source that there is Ethernet data being sent to the PC computer.
- Follow the procedures in the maintenance document for booting up the 2 computers.
- Once the software is running, you should hear sound coming from each of
9 speakers, you should see the live data ("EKG reading") on the
PC computer, and the Apple monitor should be showing that live data is indeed
- NOTE: On the front of the HM-1 speakers, there are 2 small plastic plugs
that cover power and clip indicator lamps. One can remove these to verify
that any given HM-1 is receiving its 48V DC power.
- AESTHETICS: When one places their head at center above the portal, each
of the 4 HM-1 speakers should be generally in balance with each other. Place
your head in front of each of 5 subwoofers to verify that you can hear (or
feel) sound from that particular speaker.
- If the PH3000 is under live data control, the guide-rail should be clearly,
randomly flickering (actually in relation to the intensity of the incoming
- To verify this, read the following: Notice that on the underside of the
PH3000, a light bleed casts a shadow. When the light is on without DMX control,
this shadow should be changing in a regular (periodic) way. (It looks like
something is rotating in one direction, stops and returns the other, repeating
this cycle.) If DMX control is engaged this shadow is distinctly different,
with random and fast fluctuations. It is by this means that it is most easily
verified that the PH3000 is receiving control data from the Apple computer.
If it is difficult to tell, unplug the DMX input into the PH3000: if you see
no change in its behavior, there is a problem.
- Once all of the problems are solved, follow the maintenance document for
reconnecting the monitors into their public configuration.
Cleaning and Detailing.
- Stuff scrap soft foam into any holes or openings (not visible to the public)
that will aid in sound isolation. (Holes in W-2, W-4, C-5, around the 10"
- Dress the interior curtains by installing provided paper clamps between
curtain panels c so that they hang evenly around the enclosure. Use fabric
pins to attach the front side of the interior curtains near the entry. See
photos #32 and #34. Tuck the 10 interior curtains into the gaps between
the walls and the platforms.
- NOTE: A stiff brush is included in the supplies for brushing off dust from
any of the black fabric (interior curtains or exterior walls). The fabric
is Rosco Commando 16oz. Black Duvateen. Be careful not to wear through the
- Install 5 boxes of fresh fir bark mulch into 5 locations: one at each HM-sub
(not on the sub!!!), and one inside P-5 and out of view (either to the left
- Touch up exterior pine wood facing and base trims and wall sides and faces
with 120 grit sandpaper and Elmers Natural Wood Putty.
- Touch up all gloss black iron fittings and hardware with Gloss Black Latex
Paint and a small paint brush. A black marker is also sometimes handy.
- Gently brush the exterior fabric walls so that they are clean and even.
- Follow the procedures for daily maintenance.
Complete Assembly of the Portal Railing
- Make or find 8 black PVC sleeves. These are 2" long pieces of smooth
3/4" PVC (Sch.80, plumbing) female to female couplers, with one lengthwise
band saw cut (to allow clamping when iron fitting hex set bolts are tightened),
spray-painted gloss black.
- Identify the 2 iron fittings (one of each type) that are to be the front
markers. See the "Portal Railing Detail" to identify these 2. Place
these on last.
- Slip 4 PVC sleeves onto each of the circular sections by standing on and
flexing open the break (split) in the iron circle. Slip the post top iron
fittings onto the larger circular section using the same method, being certain
to orient the fittings with the set bolts on the inside of the circle. Slip
right angle fittings onto the smaller circular section with the set bolts
on the circle facing down.
- On each of the two circular sections, slip the fitting over the sleeve and
place over the break in the circle. Loosely tighten the set bolt with the
fitting properly oriented (perpendicular to the floor and the circle) to accept
the posts later. The following takes 2 people: close the gap in the circle
and tighten the set bolts on the fitting over the break so that the circle
stays closed because of clamping by the set bolt on the PVC sleeve. The sleeve
should be centered in the fitting.
- Place a piece of paper or something on the floor and draw a perfectly square
"X" on it that is larger that the larger circular piece of 3/4"
ID iron pipe. Place a circular section on the "X" and align the
other 3 fittings and tighten. This is more tricky that it sounds. Verify that
the fittings are squarely placed by measuring the distance between fittings
and between the circle and the center of the "X".
- Follow the same procedure for both circular sections. Proceed with the assembly
- Complete assembly of the fiber optic guide-rail
- The fiber optic guide-rail is comprised of 3 elements: the fiber optic cable
gand splicing sleeves and blackout optic cable), 1" Kee Klamp iron fittings,
and plastic Guide-rail sleeves.
- The plastic sleeves were custom manufactured from UHMW plastic, lathed and
bored to fit in and around the fittings and cable, with one lengthwise band
saw cut to allow for clamping of the sleeve onto the cable when the hex set
bolt is engaged in the fitting. To get these onto (or off) the fiber optic
cable, each sleeve needed to be wedged open to avoid scraping and binding
on the cable. In addition, either end of the fiber optic cable must be disconnected
from its respective length of blackout optic cable (with the black opaque
cladding) for the sleeves to pass.
- The fiber optic cable can be cut and cemented with the appropriate tools
and supplies. See the PH3000 manual for details on how to do this work. These
materials are provided with Mori. I hope that this will never have
to be done.
- Each iron fitting simply slips on/off the cable and the sleeve when the
hex set bolts are loose. Be very careful not to scrape the cable.
- Spacing the fittings/sleeves onto the cable into the appropriate locations
on the cable that correspond to the guide-rail post positions is a laborious
task. Be certain that there will be sufficient clear fiber cable at either
end at the entry before beginning. Start at one end (or start in the middle
and work out) and moving one by one sequentially adjusting and setting each
fitting/sleeve position. Detailing this so that there is appropriate curve
and tension in the fiber optic cable is the difficult task. See photos for
what this should look like. the U-turn is the most difficult location... maybe
- When the fiber optic cable is appropriately clamped by the hex set bolts
engaged on the sleeves, and when the PH3000 is lit, each guide-rail post top
fitting/sleeve appears to emanate extra light in either direction in the fiber
optic cable (as if there were little bulbs inside each post top.) This is
the desired effect.